Many current cameras are higher than 8 bit in raw, giving them more room to wiggle, but somewhere they have their limit too.
#Exposure x vs lightroom iso#
At some point, usually high ISO and low light, you may end up with a tonal range close to or below the limit, and that may mean decreased technical image quality. An underexposed photo has less tonal steps. So with 8 bit there is plenty of tonal range to fiddle with in a decent exposure. 8 bit has almost twice as many potential steps in the tonal range than humans need to see a smooth gradient. More bit depth means the camera's potential tonal range has more steps. Personally I think Lightroom/.Adobe Camera Raw kicks the Canon in-camera processing software's butt. I think it's better to just do the processing once.
#Exposure x vs lightroom software#
Or you may need data the in-camera software discarded. Then if you go do it again it's possible you'll try to reverse things the in-camera software did. If the camera is set on jpeg it will process the photo. The difference between jpeg and raw is bit depth and double processing. The software does it's best to fill in these gaps, and in the midtones and highlights it's usually not a problem, but the shadow end already suffers from a lack of exposure data, and when you stretch it image quality suffers: more noise, posterization, etc. When you expand the tonal range you get gaps. In processing brightening is expanding the tonal range, and darkening is contracting it. You start with whatever you got with the exposure. Think of your tonal range (white to black). Processing software has no problem discarding data (darkening), but if you ask it to increase the data (brighten) then it has to make the new data up. When you adjust exposure in processing you are manipulating that data. but that is only important if that is what you want.When you adjust exposure in the camera you are increasing or decreasing the amount of actual scene data captured. The histogram is a good indicator of how far you can increase expose or highlights before you blow out the highlights (lose detail) or how far you can pull down shadows before losing detail.These are both correct exposures if that is what I wanted. If I shoot someone in a dark room with their face lit by a candle then the majority of peaks will be to the left.
If I shoot a salad on a white plate on a white tablecloth in bright sunlight then the majority of peaks will be to the right. This is not a measure of correct exposure because the only correct exposure is the one the photographer wanted. It shows the amount of each tone (from shadow through midtones to highlights) that are present in an image. The histogram does not measure or indicate correct exposure.
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